1967 E Type roadster (BD)
Total CJ restoration


 

 
Specification (briefly) for this project is as follows:

This car has been 'under restoration' in another shop for approximately 10 years. Unfortunately, virtually everything is going to have to be redone.

 
 

 

Update report - September 2, 2011

Another stunning E Type headed back home...



 



 

 Opalescent Maroon paintwork is truly stunning
 Panel gaps are perfect throughout
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 

 


Installing the new convertible top...

 
   


Engine and CJ5/600 five speed now installed, engine bay filling up rapidly...

 
     

 


Interior installation continues, building a new CJ5/600 five speed...

 
 
CJ5/600 tail housing
Main case and top cover also
CNC machined
 
   
Carlos getting the interior 
installation underway
   
   
 
 
Crankcase breather tank polished
 


Gauges rebuilt, dash assembly underway...

 

 


I am pleased to report that your car is now rolling and steering once again, and has already started to receive its lights, chrome an brightwork.

 
 
Engine bay starting to fill up
   
   
Dynamat installation underway
 
Panel fit is beautiful on this car
   
Install lights and brightwork
   


We have now finished all the paintwork and it is time to get the reassembly underway. The bodywork and the paintwork are absolutely spectacular.

 
 
     
   
     


The cabin and boot compartment have now been painted...

 
     


After countless hours of blocking and sanding, it is now time to apply the first of the Opalescent Maroon paint.

 
Engine frames first to be painted
Floors next in line...
 
 Rocker guard applied before painting
 Underside of this car is as good as E Type restoration gets...
 
Rocker guard is also applied to front wheel arches
prior to painting
 


We have been busy in both the Coachworks and the engine machine shop, over the last few weeks. We have now completely finished all the panel replacement, sheet metal repairs, panel fit and filler work. The car is now in Slick Sand (sprayable Polyester) and over the next week or so will be blocked with 120 followed 180 grit paper. Once that has been completed, the car will be put into high build primer which will be sanded with 400 followed by 600 grit (wet) paper, at which point it will be ready for painting.

 
 
Boddywork has been completed, car
now in Slick Sand
All new rubber seals and latches are
installed for final blocking process
 
   
 
Balancing your crankshaft
Kevin removing weight from the clutch
pressure plate
   
Perfect!
Weighing pistons prior to assembly
Setting crank end play using
oversized thrust washers
   
 
Just over .004" end play
Short block now assembled


The following photos show Darrell repairing the lower part of your bonnet's left hand wing, which was badly corroded. It is a fairly tricky procedure due to the beading that runs around the wheel arch and along the bottom edge of the the front wings.

 
 Your crankshaft has now been ground
Body wax applied to box section
behind lh cowl side panel
Replacement panel now welded
into place
 
 
 Lower wing badly corroded
Corroded panel is cut away 
Fabricated panel is offered into place 
 
 
 Note wheel arch beading
 Panel tack welded in position
Joint is then TIG welded 
 
 
 Front edge will be rolled around beading
(see photo below)
 
An invisible repair, inside and out 
 
 
 
 Wing now as good as new
Lead loading welded seam at bottom
of cowl side panel

 


Repairing your corroded and accident damaged bonnet center section.




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 Both side flanges of bonnet
are rusty
New sections of steel were fabricated
and welded in place
 
     
 
Fabricating a repair panel for side
of bonnet mouth
 
 
 
 This is the noisiest machine in
the entire shop!
 
 
 
 
 
 Panel has lots of complex curves
New panel is first tacked in place 
 
 
 
 
 
 Then TIG welded
 Finished repair virtually invisible
 


Your car has now been transferred to one of the frame jigs. The next task before us is to restore and fit your bonnet.

 
Bodyshell now as far as we can go
without fitting bonnet
 
Cowl side panels will be installed as part
of the bonnet fitting process
   
Both front wings are rusty and will have
to be repaired
   
   
Fabricating and installing a new 
 flange for dront wing
 
Fabricating a repair panel for bottom
section of front wing
   
   
Forming the fender beading at the lower
edge of repair panel
   


Lots of progress in the Coachworks since our last update. We have now installed the new inner sills, boot floor, main floors and outer sills.

 
Cutting away the old boot floor
 
Trial fitting new boot floor
     
Clint spot welding the new inner
sills into place
   
     
   
Trial fitting new floor cross-member
     
Spot welding new floors in place
   
     
Applying Wurth Body Wax to inner
sill cavity
Spot welding new outer sills
 
     
   
     


It is now time to get the restoration of your body underway. As Clint started cutting away the old floors, he discovered that replacement floors had been installed over the top of the rusted originals. In some of the photos below you can clearly see the labels on the aftermarket replacement floors...

 
 
     
     
     
     
     
     
 
     


We now have your body back from the balsters and our suspicions have been confirmed. The car has some significant rust issues which had previously been covered up with masses of bondo. The photographs below tell the sad story.

 
   
Inside of boot hints at what lies beneath
     
Boot floor is rotten
These rust holes were filled with bondo
Rust at front corner of lh front wing
was covered in bondo
     
The inside of the lh front wing
Floors are also rusted through
 
     
Kick panels had rust holes filled with bondo
The view from underneath the
same kick panel
Holes in bonnet mouth were filled 
with bondo
     
   

 


We now have your car fully disassembled and unfortunately, we can already see a number of issues with the body. At a minimum, this car really needs new floors as well as inner and outer sills. As always, we won't know the full story until after media blasting. The engine frames have been very crudely repaired and are not serviceable. On a more positive note, I am pleased to report that we were able to straighten your warped cylinder head and after align honing the camshaft caps, the head is as good as new.

 
 
 
 Painting inside of block with Gylptal
Car now totally disassembled 
 
 
 
 Engine frames are junk, unfortunately
 
 
 
 
Floors have issues that should become 
more clear after blasting
Inner sills are paper thin and have rust pin 
holes in them
     
Suspicious looking goop in driver's
footwell
Align honing cam caps and saddles
 Resurfacing your cylinder head 
after straightening


We have now align honed and resleeved your block, re-surfaced the deck and honed the cylinders to size ready for the new Venolia forged pistons.

 
 Measuring main caps
Align hone in progress 
 
 
 
 Old sleeves cut away
Cylinder cut to receive new
top hat sleeves
Timing chain cover is junk and
will be replaced
 
 
 Setting up to re-surface block
after re-sleeving
 
Replacement timing chain cover is
machined with block
 
 
 
 
Honing new sleeves to size
   


The following sequence of photographs demonstrate a number of problems with your cylinder head. As it is the original matching number head, we are going to do our best to save it, although it is very badly warped and has already had a lot of material removed from the deck surface. Hopefully we will be able to straighten it and still have enough material to work with to re-surface it.

 
 Head is warped
Measuring more than .050"
Note uneven bearing wear and remember
this is an engine that has never been run
 
 
 Measuring warpage along the cam saddles
 Measuring the run-out on the
previous valve job
.004" run-out is way out of spec 


I am pleased to report that your car is safely inside the CJ workshop where we already have the rebuilding process underway. Unfortunately, as you suspected would be the case, the engine rebuild you had done elsewhere has a number of serious issues. The valve seats in the cylinder head have been machined incorrectly, at too great a depth, corrosion issues in the chambers were not addressed, and the re-surfacing job done on the cylinder head deck is about as bad as it could be.

The block also appears to have had sleeves installed within sleeves, which is a totally unacceptable practice. The bottom line is that we already have a much needed full (Stage One) CJ engine rebuild underway.

I hope you enjoy watching the rebuild of your E Type on these pages over the next few months.


 
 
With the head removed, we were able to
inspect the quality of the previous rebuild
Difficult to photograph, but the previous
valve job was not of good quality
     
 
 
Re-surfacing job scored the deck surface
very badly
 

 
 

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