1961 Jaguar E Type FHC (BA)
Total restoration
Restoration log by Dan Mooney


 

 
Specification (briefly) for this project is as follows:

Total restoration to original specification of an extremely rare outside bonnet latch FHC. This car will be restored in its original factory livery of Opalescent Dark Blue with Biscuit interior.

Return to main CJ workshop


 

 

Update report - September 20, 2017

Lots of progress with the assembly of 885013.




Starter motor casing dated Feb 61
Rebuilding the starter motor


































Ready to install
Lots of new old stock goodies obtained from
Dr. Mueller











Carlos trimming the inner wheel arches






















Interior coming together slowly but surely
Prior to trimming, all the interior panels are
being carefully trial fitted










Early style (flat) dash top has been re-trimmed
LHD 'tripod' headlamps were original equipment










Early style pedal box has been completely rebuilt
Engine bay filling up rapidly!





Time to get the interior installation underway.



Starter motor rebuild underway - note the case
is date stamped 2//61
Carlos has now begun the process of installing
the interior










Trial fitting rear parcel shelf, which is unique to
the very early coupes
Center section of the wool headliner is the first
trim item to be permanently installed





I have previously mentioned that the Haddock/Mueller 6 Cylinder E Type Originality Guide has been an invaluable resource for me as I strive to make this car as correct and true to the original as possible. Interestingly enough, 885013 is mentioned and referenced no fewer than nine times in the book.

Having researched precisely which voltage regulator I needed using the Haddock/Mueller book, I was able to purchase a brand new old stock RB310 unit with the correct E Type specific model number of 37304B, and a highly appropriate date stamp of 10/60, from Dr. Mike Mueller himself. In fact, it is the actual voltage regulator used as an example of the original type in the book, photographed on page 214.




Brand new old stock RB310 regulator purchased
from Dr. Mike Mueller











Rarely seen production test stamp










Yellow crayon mark applied during QC
testing on the Lucas production line
Note that our regulator is the actual one used as
an example of the correct type on page 214




As rough as the original data plate for 885013 obviously was (see first image below), we felt it was important that it should be retained, if at all possible. The following sequence of photos show the steps we took to achieve our goal.



Original data plate was in very poor condition
After a lot of scrubbing and a couple of passes
in the English Wheel (really)










Masking off the bare aluminum sections
Jake applying Precision Brand ABC Blackener










We then applied some flat clear as the ABC
Blackener stain is not durable
Original plate now looks very presentable riveted
back in place on the car



With Gerardo's sanding and buffing of the paintwork now complete, Jake has begun the process of installing and adjusting the doors.




Driver's door was the first to be installed
Now fully adjusted and latched











Passenger door now installed















Interesting to discover that the unused German/Swiss knock-off tool kindly supplied by Bruce Cox in Canada is actually clear Cad plated.



Unused German/Swiss knock-off tool (on left)
is clear Cad plated
Boot compartment looking very much like it would
have in the summer of '61











Note reverse lamp housing riveted in place




The excellent Haddock/Mueller E Type Originality Guide highlights the differences between early and late E Type gauges. This morning I used it as a reference to confirm that our gauges are correct (and in most cases original) to 885013. According to the Spare Parts Catalogue (J30), the serial number of our speedometer was exclusively used in E Types supplied to the German and Italian markets (with 3.31 final drive ratio).



Examining gauges prior to rebuilding
Early tachometers are marked RV 7403/02










The MPH stickers were applied to the speedo when
885013 was imported to the US from Germany
SN6322/02 denotes a German or Italian spec car
with a 3.31 final drive ratio










The spare parts catalogue (J30) confirms our speedo
found only on German and Italian spec E Types
Early oil pressure gauges were marked
PE2300/01










Distributor is date stamped April 1961
Very early fuel sender was restored prior
to being installed










Early fuel gauge serial number
BF 2200/01
Thanks to Bruce Cox in Canada who provided us with
this mint condition German/Swiss knock-off tool!




Installing the fuel tank.



Can you tell which are the restored originals and
which are modified US spec knock-offs?
Preparing to install the fuel tank










Cheney clamps on fuel filler pipe




I am pleased to report that 885013 is now back on its wheels! The following sequence of photographs also shows the restoration of the brake vacuum tank, including reproduction of the 'Trico Reservac' label. Some time ago we were fortunate enough to restore a totally original 15,000 mile E Type from which we were able to create a template for the Trico markings. The Trico label was originally painted fairly haphazardly, so we have done our best to replicate the factory markings.



About to install the front rotors and hubs
BEES bolts used throughout










Car now back on its wheels











Original brake vacuum tank from a 15,000 mile
E Type previously restored by CJ
Making a template of the original TRICO label










TRICO label painted in white on the restored tank
In place on the firewall




885013 was supplied new in Germany and as a result would have had the rare two eared knock-offs which were unique to the German and Swiss markets. We were lucky enough to obtain a couple of original German/Swiss knock-offs from Dr. Mike Mueller, but after several months of searching, we have been unable to complete our set.

As a result we decided to modify a pair of US spec knock-offs to precisely match the appearance of the original two eared versions. This was not as simple as trimming the larger ears on the US spec component, as the side profile was also slightly different. Corey in the CJ machine shop did a fantastic job of machining the the US knock-offs to look exactly like the German version.

Another example of getting creative in order to get some of the tiny details correct involved the fuel tank drain sump. The very early cars had male threads on the sump, which was quickly reversed early in E Type production. The early male thread sumps (and female thread gas tanks) are obviously no longer available, so huge thanks to Dave Ferguson at Images Auto Body in Campbell, California (who recently restored 885010), who had an extra male thread sump made (when he needed one for 885010) and made a gift of the spare to us for use on 885013. That was very generous of Dave and much appreciated!

With our beautifully machined male thread sump in hand, we then had to modify a new gas tank to receive the early style sump. We achieved this by cutting the female threaded section of a later sump and brazing it to a new tank. The finished result is indistinguishable from an early sump and tank.




German/Swiss knock-off shown on right
Note different profiles of German versus
US knock-offs










First task was to cut off the much larger US spec ears
Corey then machined the side profiles to match










After hand finishing, the modified knock-offs will
be chrome plated
Custom made male thread gas tank sump was a
gift from Dave Ferguson at Images Auto Body










Female threads cut from a later sump
Male threads cut from new gas tank






















Old threaded section then brazed to new tank
Indistinguishable from an original early tank










Job done!
Starting to install Cad plated front suspension










Steering rack gaiters secured with lock wire and 3
restored/original Cheney clamps
Close up of one of the restored Cheney clamps on the
right side of the steering rack










Early propshafts were hollow
Headlamp scoops were body color on the
early E Types




With the body on one of the workshop lifts to have the IRS installed, it was a good opportunity to snap a few photographs showing the underside of the car.



























































Always an exciting time installing the restored
engine frames and hanging the suspension























Restored original BEES bolts used throughout
Even lower subframe bolts, which will be invisible
when car is fully assembled, are original BEES






















Mounting point for outside bonnet latch brackets
Body number was originally written in yellow crayon
on the firewall behind washer bottle




Time to put 885013 back on its wheels!



First task is to install the engine subframes
Original BEES bolts have been restored and will be
used during the assembly process











IRS has been completely rebuilt and will be
installed after the engine frames











Ray installing the first of the engine frames




The following sequence of photos show some of the very early features in the painted bonnet hinge frame, as well as the restoration and installation of the all important body number tag on the firewall.




Engine frames have now been painted
Note spot welded radiator support brace










Note no support flange at lower anchor points
Note male threaded hinge post (nut in place to keep
threads clear of paint)










This is the original factory stamping on the
picture frame
Firewall body number tag still has original paint,
note no paint beneath the rivets










Unpainted on rear
We will rivet the tag to the firewall prior to painting
it, as they did at the factory 56 yrs ago










Rear of tag will remain unpainted, per original
Jake rivets the body tag back on the firewall











Firewall now painted Opalescent Dark Blue










Body tag painted at the same time as the firewall
The same tag photographed before the
restoration got underway




The bonnet and tailgate have now been completed. A huge amount of time and effort went into saving the bonnet for this car as 885013 is believed to be one of just three of the outside latch coupes that still has its original bonnet.




















Opalescent Dark Blue is a color that really comes alive in the sunshine.




















This afternoon Gerardo is painting the main body and doors.




The view through one of the booth windows
as Gerardo applies the first coat
Main body and doors today, bonnet and tailgate
will be painted tomorrow










The first of four coats of Opalescent Dark Blue
base coat













Final pass of Opalescent Dark Blue base applied,
now time for the clear coat
First pass of clear going on, viewed through
the booth window










With one coat of clear applied, the true Opalescent
Dark Blue color begins to appear












Two more coats will now be applied...










All three coats of clear now applied
























Bonnet and tailgate tomorrow




Painting the underside of the bonnet and the main floors.




A huge amount of work went into preserving
the original outside latch bonnet












Original bonnet brace was stamped with the body
number at the factory










Body will now be placed on one of the roll-around
jigs to paint the outer panels

















It is finally time to apply the first of the Opalescent Dark Blue paint.
























































The following images show the difference between very early bonnet hinges and those fitted to E Types beyond the first few months of production.



Using Tom Haddock's excellent originality
book as a reference
Early hinge at bottom of this image is clearly a
different shape to later hinge




1961 vintage Girling shock absorbers restored to pristine condition.




Shocks were stripped, repaired and repainted
correct Girling Blue










Early cars had shorter springs, a spacer at the top
and thick aluminum retainers at the bottom
Shocks now restored and ready to install!




Tool kit now complete with all original and period correct tools.



Tool roll is now 100% complete, tools will
be restored
Comparing to a known original tool kit from
chassis # 875462 (in foreground)




Powder coated IRS components ready for final assembly.




















Differential now rebuilt and reassembled using all original fasteners, hub carriers restored and rebuilt, and chrome trial fit continues...



Diff now assembled using original 'Newton' bolts
and final drive ratio and PL (Powerlok) tags











Ultra early hub carriers have the same sized
inner and outer bearings and seals
Hub carriers now look new










Trial fitting front bumpers
First sighting of the famous outside bonnet latches!





Early Girling shock absorbers and two eared German 'safety' knock-offs

In our quest to have everything on this car as original and correct as humanly possible, we are very fortunate to have our friend and early E Type expert Mike Mueller not only advising on some of the finer points of originality, but also coming up with some of the hard to find parts that are unique to the extremely early cars. This week Mike was able to supply us with some very early Girling shock absorbers, as well as three out of four of the extremely rare German two eared 'safety' knock-offs.

If anybody out there has a spare left hand German knock-off, we would love to buy it to complete the set we need for 885013. Our car was supplied new in Germany, which means the two eared 'safety' knock-offs would have been installed originally.

Ultra early hub carriers

In two of the photos below you can see the rear hub carriers. The very earliest cars had an undocumented hub carrier, part number C15229-4. This part number was not mentioned in the J30 Spare Parts Catalogue, which incorrectly cited part number C19063 as the earliest form of hub carrier used. We have restored numerous outside latch roadsters, as well as two of only 18 LHD outside latch coupes to leave the factory, and we have seen several cars with the C15229-4 hub carriers. Interestingly, while 885013 has clearly had the C15229-4 hubs from new, 885020 and 885036 both had the C19063 carrier listed in the Parts Catalogue. We have documented several outside latch roadsters built prior to July 1961 that had the C15229-4 hubs.




1961 vintage Girling shocks will be rebuilt
and restored
Hard to find the correct part number front shocks










Early differential housings were red oxide color
when new
Differential final drive ratio stamped on the
crown wheel (3.31)










Diff cover was gloss black on the early cars











Hub carriers were stamped left and right, although
I honestly don't know what the 136 denotes..
Ultra early hub carriers - Part # C15229-4










Mike Mueller previously loaned us this original early
door so we could replicate the unique rear edge
Here you can clearly see the modified upper
rear door edge










Carlos trial fitting door window frames and
rear quarter lights
Trial fitting headlamp chrome















Special thanks to Dr. Mike Mueller, the accepted world authority on outside latch E Type coupes, who was kind enough to loan us an original outside latch coupe door and an ultra early production bonnet mouth tray, so that we could replicate each of them for our restoration of 885013. The photos below show the modifications in progress.




Note difference between upper rear corners
of ultra early versus late coupe doors











After simple modification, our restored door
looks exactly like the original
Comparing the two side by side










This is a very early bonnet mouth tray











Captive nut brackets spot welded to early tray











Fabricating new captive nut brackets























Spot welding new captive nut brackets in place

 




I am delighted to report that we have now completed the bodywork stage of this project and 885013 has been primed with Spies Hecker Raderal sprayable polyester primer. All of the panel gaps have been finalized at this stage and the car is scheduled to be painted very early in the New Year.




Car has now been put into Spies Hecker Raderal
sprayable Polyester primer











Panel gaps have all been finalized and are
spectacular throughout
You may never see a better fitting bonnet!










Note how the rear edge of the bonnet follows the
contour of the cowl perfectly











Door top flows perfectly into rear quarter and top
edge is perfectly straight across both panels
Note pronounced rectangular shape of gas flap
which is a feature of the very early cars










Tailgate also fits beautifully











Another view showing how the bonnet follows the
contour of the cowl panel
Front upper corner of the RH door











Wheel arch lips were folded on very early cars for
additional tire clearance




Carlos has now completed the re-trim of the first seat.
































Carlos has been putting on something of a master class, trimming your seats.



Restored seat base cushion frames











First of the seat bases trimmed
























Trimming and installing seat back foam










Carving the foam to the desired shape using
a sanding block














Trimming the second seat base















We have had to fabricate several interior trim panels as there are subtle differences between the very early cars and later production models. It isn't really possible to buy a 'kit' for the very early cars, because so many things were hand built, resulting in variations from one car to the next.



A unique feature of the very early coupes are the
sabre-like cantrail panels
Fabricating new cantrail ends























Corrected template in center, newly fabricated
alloy panel to right










Note slight difference in position of holes for
cubby and hatch release
Trial fitting hatch release in new panel










New panels will be trimmed in biscuit vinyl











Panels around hatch itself also had to be fabricated
















Your original bonnet hinge frame was unfortunately too badly damaged to restore. As there are several differences between the very early hinge frames and the later versions, Matt spent some time modifying a replacement frame to look exactly like the original. The following sequence of photographs show how we achieved this.



The original frame was manged and rusty
Radiator support plinth is fabricated on the very
early hinge frames










Lower mounting bracket of the early frame
Lower mounting bracket of later frame, which
is heavily reinforced











Later radiator support plinth is pressed










Cutting away the pressed plinth on the later bracket
Flat plinth welded in place










Brace spot welded on plinth, precisely as the
original had been
License plate bracket tab was not on the very
early frames










License plate tab removed












Finished frame is indistinguishable from the original





Your original outside latch bonnet has now been restored and assembled.   




















Your original picture frame was too badly damaged to save, although we felt it was important to retain the original factory chassis number stamping. To that end, Matt cut away the stamped portion of the original picture frame and transplanted it to a new frame.















The original picture frame was mangled!












Factory chassis number stamping cut out










Original chassis stamping clamped to the new frame
Job done!




Your Team CJ restoration book is already at almost 200 pages - and the car has yet to be painted!






Matt has almost finished restoring your bonnet. All that remains to be done is to reconstruct the belly pan that forms the bottom half of the bonnet mouth.












































Continuing with the restoration of your original bonnet.



Some nasty corrosion in the heater intake panel











Making a card template for the repair panel
























Tack welding repair panel in place






















Spot welding brackets to underside of the
bonnet center section
Marking a corroded area of the RH wing to be
cut away and patched






















Corroded sheet metal cut away











Repair panel tack welded in place
After TIG welding and metal finishing, the repair
is virtually invisible




Repairing mangled 'tea tray' panel for bonnet mouth, tack welding repaired nose section to bonnet center section...




Bonnet mouth 'tea tray' was badly damaged and
also had an unwanted hole
Front edge was particularly mangled










Matt reworked the panel on the English wheel
with the planishing hammer











Trial fitting the repaired panel
Tack welding repaired nose to original center section




Matt has been pressing ahead with the restoration of your bonnet. Some of the brackets on the underside of the bonnet center section were a little too rough to be re-used, so we fabricated new replacements. On the very early bonnets, all of the support brackets beneath the bonnet center section and on the inner wall of the front wings were spot welded in place, rather than glued, as was the case on later production E Types. In restoring your bonnet, Matt has been taking great care to replicate the precise location of every last spot weld.



Fabricating new support brackets












Spot welding support brackets in place











Every last spot weld is in precisely the same postion






















Spot welds visible on top side of the bonnet
center section











Spot welding the restored louvers back in place












Spot welded panels and louvers viewed
from beneath










Air intakes will need some repairs before they
can be bolted to the center section
Pulling dents from one of the air intake panels











Trial fitting the repaired air intakes











To be continued...





We were determined to save the original bonnet louvers, despite them being badly pitted and actually holed in some areas. It took some ingenuity on Matt's part, including fabricating a copper louver to use as a backing panel to the original louvers during the welding process. I thought you might be interested to have Matt explain his methods personally.

An explanation of welded louver repair, by Matt Quinn

The original bonnet from 885013, albeit creased and crunched from accident damage and dilapidated with rust, is obviously worth saving as it is one of only three original LHD outside latch coupe bonnets still with its original body. Our goal with this project is to preserve as much of the original sheet metal as possible. Without going into a rabbit hole of theory and textbook detail, I have compiled my thoughts and actions behind the 'copper louver' idea in the following paragraphs. 

 

After removing both spot welded louver panels from the bonnet center section, I found extensive rust and pitting on the mating surfaces between the two panels. After media blasting, wire wheeling and treating the surfaces with Ospho (a rust sealer and inhibitor), I could see the full extent of the dilapidation that had meandered onto the visible (upper) sections of the louvers. Rust had eaten away the metal, leaving behind extensive pitting, and even some holes, all of which had been hidden beneath multiple layers of paint and body filler. 


The bonnets were factory stamped from 20 gauge sheet metal, which itself is already thin. Add in the dilapidation from the spreading corrosion, and we were obviously faced with a significant challenge to properly repair the louvers. A TIG welder adds heat to the weld zone, which will effectively eat away thin material when welding. In order to prevent the material from literally disappearing, you have to be light with the heat and quick to add filler rod (in this case silicon bronze). However, in this case, due to the severity of the rust, and the existence of actual pitted holes, no amount of light heat and rod dabbing would keep the pitted louvers intact. 

 

I regularly use 30 ounce copper sheet clamped to the back side of sheet metal when welding in patch panels. The copper acts as a heat sink and also keeps the back side of the weld shielded from the atmosphere. This allows small holes to be filled with weld by keeping the focus of heat off the area, so the base metal will accept a filler rod without disappearing. After making a test panel with our louver cutter on the Pullmax machine, I was able to repair the original louvers by copper backing them during the welding process. The louver cutter made a slightly less pronounced replica of the factory louvers so it backed the stamping perfectly. I lightly clamped the copper louver in place and used a silicon bronze rod to TIG weld up the pitted areas.


Repairing the louvers this way kept the original sheet metal intact and filled the missing and low areas with a less intrusive material.   
















Original spot welds were cut out in order to separate
the louvers from the center section
Punching out plugs to fill the holes left cutting
out the original spot welds










Welding the plugs












Copper 'backing' louver fabricated on the Pullmax










Copper louver lightly clamped in place























Front louver actually holed











Note copper louver visible through the rust hole











Pitting and hole now filled with silicon bronze












Louvers now almost ready to be spot welded
back onto the center section




The follow sequence of photographs show some of the challenges we have restoring the original outside latch bonnet. For any other E Type, we would simply supply a new bonnet and modify it to look like an outside latch unit. However, as we believe 885013 may be one of only three LHD outside latch coupes that still has its original bonnet, we think it is worth the extra time and effort to save as much of the original sheet metal as possible.




The center section nose is especially badly damaged











Some of the support flanges are very rusty
The rear edge brace is also damaged










There is some severe pitting in the louvers,
with some areas actually rusted through
The center section has been crudely patched in
the distant past










Another shot of rust pitting in the louvers
















































When the factory assembled the early bonnets, they
welded bare metal to bare metal (no primer)











Bad corrosion beneath one of the flanges






















Forward section of the bonnet nose cut away
Early center sections were two piece, with the nose
welded in place across the entire width of the panel










Metal finishing the top surface of the center section























Metal finishing the power bulge












No primer between the louver panel and the center
section, leading to inevitable corrosion



































Corrosion between the rear edge brace and
the center section










We are applying weld through primer to all
weld zones












Replacement panel cut from a rust free bonnet










Tack welding the replacement panel in place



































Center section starting to look much better
A new forward nose section will be fabricated
using our wooden buck





Matt has removed the main body from the roller-hoop jig for installation on a roll-around frame jig. The hoops conjure up thoughts of Stargate Atlantis and the E Type emerging on the other side of the gate in the year 1961..






Interesting to note the many differences between the very early type of hatch door latch and one from just a year later in the E Type production cycle. In the photographs below, the later style latch is the freshly plated unit.



Comparing early latch (on right) with later version











There are several significant differences












Later latch had slotted, countersunk screws










Earlier latch had phillips button head screws
Earlier latch had two 'hand cut' bolt holes, versus
3 stamped/slotted bolt holes on later latch










Note differences in the contruction of the frame











Bolt holes were welded up prior to being re-cut
New bolt holes slotted for adjustment











Latch assembly trial fitted beneath tailgate










Time to trial fit license plate lamps
Note how poorly they fit before adjustment










Very early cars had "Butler" license plate lights
Chrome trim will be repaired prior to plating











Straightened and blasted, the brass trim is
now ready to be re-plated






















Trial fitting the lamp sockets
Innards will be cad plated, outer trim
chrome plated




The following sequence of photos highlight some of the differences between the very early production, 'hand made' tailgate latch fitted to 885013, and the mass produced version used on virtually all regular production coupes.




Comparing early coupe latch (left) with later
production version (right)
Later production latch frame is one piece










Early latch frame several pieces, welded together
Later latch has integral return spring










Early latch has no return spring












Latch frame requires extensive work


























































Both side panels will be replaced



































Fabricating the second side panel























Reconstruction almost complete





There are quite a few differences between the very early tailgates and later production items, so it was important that we repaired, rather than replaced, the hatch door for 885013.




Tailgate has been repaired in the past
Cutting out corroded sections























Fabricating new captive nut blocks











Fabricating repair panels























Trial fitting original hatch skin










Low spots identified down left side of panel,
previously concealed by bondo
Panel was reshaped on English wheel










Hinges were badly worn and required rebuilding
Bronze bushings about to be pressed into hinges











Note factory scribing denoting #13 (top and
bottom hinges)










Hinges now rebuilt as new
















Huge progress in the CJ Coachworks over the last few weeks.



Both A posts are rusty and require extensive repair



































Starting to fabricate repair panels












Trial fitting new panels






















New sheet metal welded in place exactly
as the original panels had been











Door shells both need rust repairs
Many differences between very early doors and
later production



































Fabricating door top repair panels














































Front edges of door frames are particularly rough











Card templates made from the original panel



































Trial fitting door frames












More door frame repairs



































Both door frames now sound and ready to
have new skins installed




Time to turn our attention to the rusty cowl and screen pillars...




Cowl panel is rusty and will have to be replaced











Screen pillars are unusually rusty











The other side of the cowl is equally rusty























Screen pillars will be reconstructed using new
sheet metal










Only minor surface rust found beneath the cowl panel












Cleaning surface rust from inner dash




Rust proofing inner sill box sections and installing new outer sill panels.





Wurth Body Wax applied to all enclosed section










Inner edge of outer sills also coated in wax
Clamping new panels in position


































Outer sills now welded in place












Foundation of the monocoque now reconstructed







Floors now spot welded into place











Trial fitting engine frames
Welding new engine frame anchor points into place























Making sure front profile of outer sill matches rear











Installing inner sill support gussets




Installing the new outer sills and trial fitting new floors..




New cross-member welded in place










Rear bulkhead repairs now completed
Old inner sills now cut away



































Laying new inner sills in place











Preparing to spot weld new inner sills in position






















Trial fitting new floors with reaction plate












New floors will be trimmed to match trans cover



Removing what is left of the old floors with a plasma cutter, repairing the transmission tunnel..

















































































































Replacement drive shaft tunnel has facility for seat
belts which were not installed originally











Steel blanking plate cut to fill seat belt anchor hole










Blanking plate welded in place
After metal finishing, the repair is invisible




The new boot floor and lower quarters have now been welded in place, and Matt has also corrected the shape of the rear wheel arches.
















































































Matt has been busy replacing the boot floor and lower quarter panels..



Body shell has been placed on a special rotisserie











Scraping away factory lead from license plate area











Various modifications will be needed before the
new panels fit perfectly























Both panels will be extended to properly fit
with edge of their respective wheel wells
























Preparing to weld extension panel to RH lower
quarter










Extended panel now fits perfectly
Rear end starting to take shape





The right hand rear quarter panel has now been repaired and installed..




Trial fitting quarter panel one last time






















Repaired panel now sealed in epoxy primer
Weld zones will be sealed with weld thru primer











Quarter being welded in place (in back ground)











Matt will begin reworking the boot compartment next




Matt has been making great progress with the RH rear quarter and B pillar repairs. He is almost to a point where the second quarter panel can be permanently installed .



Trial fitting RH quarter after significant repairs
Shut face panel is a mess, as is the rubber
seal channel










Template for the new rubber seal channel
Trial fitting new seal panel and new shut
face panel together










View of the back side of the shut face panel























Time to address the panel immediately
beneath the RH quarter light window











Damaged portion cut away
New sheet metal welded in place










Fabricating a support panel for the
quarter light window latch




































Preparing to weld the new shut face assembly
to the quarter panel






















Note reconstructed B pillar support tower now
welded to rear of shut face panel






Removing small dents from rear panel












Welding new seal retainer to quarter panel










Trial fitting the new shut face panel to quarter
Trial fitting new inner wheel well










Spot welding new inner wheel well in place
Almost ready to install repaired quarter panel




We have now completely disassembled the IRS and have the restoration and rebuild underway..




Tag denotes 3:31 final drive






















Cage and tie plate will be powder coated
Very early version of IRS tie plate




Continuing with the rear quarter panel repairs...



Rusty panel cut out, compared side by side
with the new replacement panel











Clamping the trimmed replacement panel in place
Panel first tack welded in place











Matt TIG welding the new seam










Repair panel now TIG welded in place
As pretty a TIG bead as you will ever see










TIG bead then metal finished
The result is a virtually invisible repair




We are excited to get the body restoration of this very important E Type underway. Our first job is to remove and repair the driver's side quarter panel, as well as to fabricate and install a new seal rail for the door shut face panel.



Driver's quarter panel is in poor shape and
needs extensive repair
A rarely seen view beneath the rear quarter panel











B pillar in poor shape










Inner wheel arch will require attention
Lower section of quarter panel is rtten






















Interesting to see how these very earl panels were
made in two pieces, welded together
A new shut face seal rail will have to be fabricated






































































Ready to spot weld the new seal rail in place
on the shut face panel











Holes previously drilled to pull the panel
after an accident
Holes now welded up and metal finished










Identifying a low spot on the quarter panel
This shows the low spot very clearly










Matt planished and metal finished the low spot to
restore the correct contour and shape




Back from the blasters, the main bodyshell is very much as expected, the bonnet a little rougher than we would have hoped. We will have the body restoration underway next week.

































Preparing the body for media blasting back to bare metal...
































Time to get this important body restoration underway. Our first task will be to strip and disassemble the bonnet. We have decided to restore (rather than replace) the bonnet because we understand that 885013 is one of only 3 of the surviving outside latch coupes that still has its original factory bonnet.

The last four photographs in the sequence below show the completed engine rebuild.





Air intakes spot welded to underside of center
section on early outside latch bonnets






















We have to remove bondo from seams before
we can take bonnet apart












Bondo almost 3/4" deep on the nose of this bonnet










Shot block rebuilt, time to install the head











Original bolts black zinc plated
Polished valve covers add the finishing touch





Assembling short block...



Balancing crankshaft
Uprated rear crank seal











ARP main and rod bolts











Close up of cross hatch pattern on cylinder wall




We have now fully assembled your cylinder head..





















We have now completed the machine work to your cylinder head...



Cylinder head was exceedingly grubby, but actually
in pretty good shape
Pumpkin Gold a feature of very early E Type
cylinder heads










Front chain cover will require extensive cleaning
and polishing
Tear down underway










Measuring camshaft saddles. An align hone will
be needed
Pressure testing head after media blasting










Align honing cam housings











Cutting out old valve seats
Pockets now sized for custom CJ valve seats










New CJ seats pressed in place
CJ magnesium bronze guides










Honing new guides for desired stem to guide
clearance
Setting up to machine the valve job










5 angled valve job a CJ specialty











Bowl requires blending to the new seat
Blending creates a more efficient combustion
chamber










Surfacing the intake and exhaust flanges for perfect
seal of intake and exhaust manifolds
Surfacing the deck of the cylinder head










Finished result is as good as new (or better)











Front chain cover received hours of sanding and
polishing











Ready for assembly
Installing new valves and keepers on assembly
bench










Before...
After...










Before...
After...





Original Jaguar tool kit will be restored to new condition..




Kit is almost complete, just missing the brake bleed
tube, cam timing tool and grease gun




I am pleased to report that your car is now safely in the CJ workshops and we already have the restoration underway.

 
 Car is partly disassembled, but effectively complete
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
One of only 3 of the outside latch coupes known to 
have its original bonnet
 
 
 
 
 
 
Welded louvers
Early coupes had roadster style seats


We will have this exciting project underway in the next few days...

 
 As found, in the proverbial Texas barn
 Number 13 of only 20 LHD outside latch coupes
built

 

 

 
Factory body tag still in place on the firewall
Body number also stamped on the bonnet 

 

 

 
 Floors are not as bad as they look
 

 

 

 
 Car was originally Opalescent Dark Blue with
Biscuit trim
 

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